Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Recipe 98: Lemon-Scented Orichchiette Pasta with Fava Beans and Fresh Tarragon

The challenge: Fava beans, 1)They were supposed to be fresh. I didn't plant them, so I bought them dried. 2)They still need to be peeled. 3)Time, time, time...to everything there is a season...some evenings-tired and hungry, it felt as if it would take all season to peel these things, and it is summer now, I believe.

The story: I soaked the beans overnight, then I began the peeling. You've already heard that complaint. Next, since they are now the equivalent of fresh or as close as I can get right now, I began to boil them in lightly salted water, and blanched them quickly in an ice bath. Once blanched, I began cooking the pasta and peeling the rest of the beans I didn't get to earlier. I believe I mentioned this took some time. Emeril ever so cheerfully says: "Pinch of a strip of the skin and pop the bean out of the skin into the bowl, set it aside." It was not that easy, except maybe two beans. Some beans felt like peeling hard boiled eggs, only the shells didn't crack.

If you have never played with fava beans, you just might notice that they are a cross between kidneys, ears, and peanuts. I'm still not certain how this is managed, but I'll get on with the pasta and the sauce. I bought oricchette pasta and was grateful the little caps that resemble nursing masks were easy to cook.

Now, the sauce, the good part, I hope. I heated olive oil in the pan, added the shallot and garlic to saute' until fragrant. Next I poured in a little white wine and cooked until almost reduced, another 2 to 3 minutes. I then added a cup of chicken stock, and reduced it by half. Some days, I wonder at all the reductions chefs seem to love. I hope it really does bring out more flavors, but this is the easy part. Once the stock has reduced, add the favas, lemon zest, butter, tarragon, salt and pepper. Make sure the favas are heated through and the sauce is thick and flavorful. Take pan off heat at this time.

Note about the wine: I used a Sugar Bush wine from Salt River Winery out of Shepherd, MI. I prefer the flavors of the home-made white wine, and often find it drier than what I can pay for in the stores. Plus, I've found only about two white wines I can tolerate in stores, and I can't remember either of them. So, I use the wine Lauri brings me from her winery, in exchange for my empty bottles. I haven't found a better trade-off.

When the pasta is al dente-11 minutes, according to the box, drain it, then add it to the sauce to coat. Next, add the fresh grated parmigiano-reggiano and toss. Here, I bought the cheaper already grated $6.29 container of Parmigiano-Reggiano, and waited nearly a week to use it, but I did not open it. I may have enough for one more recipe. However, a $9-11 brick of parmigiano-reggiano does tend to get me through at least four recipes. I think I will go with the brick in the future.

And then to taste. It left something to be desired. I think it was the size and texture of the fava bean mostly, the sauce was nice, even with the white wine in it. After trying it, I didn't feel I could really place what it needed. When I went back for a little more later, I realized that the recipe needed cannellini beans instead of fava beans. With the smaller size and the creaminess, this recipe would have tasted much better. I do not expect to make this recipe again, however, if I feel the need for pasta and beans and do not make spezzatino, I will certainly use cannellini beans. I'm honestly not sure why Emeril doesn't, but I expect he has his reasons.

This felt like a recipe you make when you are young and trying to impress someone you don't like, maybe a spouse's boss. You slave all day, and it doesn't come out, but they have to be polite and tell you its good, especially as you explain what it took to shell each of these beans. And the whole time you explain that your hands touched every bean here, they hope you have washed your hands often and well.

I will not make this recipe again. Sorry, Emeril, you cannot win them all;-).

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