Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Recipe 99: Nectarine and Mascarpone Tart in a Sugar Cookie Crust

The challenge: Locating Peach Jam. I should have made the recipe at the back of the book. I found peach preserves and used them.

The picture of this tart looks so good, I was excited to see peaches and nectarines begin to come into season. The recipe was pretty easy, overall.

Next time, I would use better or homemade sugar cookies in this recipe, or more likely, I'll use graham crackers or oreos. I still wonder how this recipe will taste with chocolate drizzled over it.

It went together rather easy, the toughest part was almost the waiting-but we all know by now that I'm really good at distracted cooking or capable of making it happen. Once I crumbled the sugar cookies and processed them to make crumbs and mixed them with butter, I pressed them into the bottom of the pan. I crumbled a few extra to make sure the bottom was covered. I baked this for about 9 minutes, or hoped I was close, and was glad to pull it out of the oven before it was over-cooked. I allowed the crust to cool while I did some dishes and created the filling.

Then, I creamed together the mascarpone and cream cheeses and added the sour cream, sugar, and vanilla and almond extract. I spread this over the sugar cookie crust and refridgerated for two hours(up to one day). Later, after taking a walk, and visiting James before he went to work, I sliced the nectarines and arranged them on the chilled crust and filling.

Once the nectarines were arranged prettily, I warmed the peach preserves and brushed them over the nectarines. Then I got a knife, spatula and fork, and dug in.
It was good, but I honestly think it would be better as the peaches and cream it is supposed to be a play off of. I think I would rather have rasperries top the cream cheese and mascarpone filling than nectarines. But this is my opinion. If you love nectarines, you will be in heaven. If you do not love nectarines, my suggestion is to find a tart fruit you will love and use that. If you do not like tart fruit, well, I'm not sure what to advise. You might pull off a sweet one, like peaches, but I'm afraid you'll still be left with something to be desired.

In addition, I realized by the next day, this dish is meant to be served the day it is finished, not any later. The nectarines begin to ooze juice and it runs into the sugar cookie crust. Its not bad like this, but its better if there aren't going to be many leftovers for this dish, which makes it great for a potluck or sunday picnic or family gathering. Not for a single woman with only so much time and a sweet tooth;-).

If I make this recipe again, it will be done differently. It was still good enough my nieces might talk me into it, but the raspberries should be ready by the time they visit;-).

Recipe 98: Lemon-Scented Orichchiette Pasta with Fava Beans and Fresh Tarragon

The challenge: Fava beans, 1)They were supposed to be fresh. I didn't plant them, so I bought them dried. 2)They still need to be peeled. 3)Time, time, time...to everything there is a season...some evenings-tired and hungry, it felt as if it would take all season to peel these things, and it is summer now, I believe.

The story: I soaked the beans overnight, then I began the peeling. You've already heard that complaint. Next, since they are now the equivalent of fresh or as close as I can get right now, I began to boil them in lightly salted water, and blanched them quickly in an ice bath. Once blanched, I began cooking the pasta and peeling the rest of the beans I didn't get to earlier. I believe I mentioned this took some time. Emeril ever so cheerfully says: "Pinch of a strip of the skin and pop the bean out of the skin into the bowl, set it aside." It was not that easy, except maybe two beans. Some beans felt like peeling hard boiled eggs, only the shells didn't crack.

If you have never played with fava beans, you just might notice that they are a cross between kidneys, ears, and peanuts. I'm still not certain how this is managed, but I'll get on with the pasta and the sauce. I bought oricchette pasta and was grateful the little caps that resemble nursing masks were easy to cook.

Now, the sauce, the good part, I hope. I heated olive oil in the pan, added the shallot and garlic to saute' until fragrant. Next I poured in a little white wine and cooked until almost reduced, another 2 to 3 minutes. I then added a cup of chicken stock, and reduced it by half. Some days, I wonder at all the reductions chefs seem to love. I hope it really does bring out more flavors, but this is the easy part. Once the stock has reduced, add the favas, lemon zest, butter, tarragon, salt and pepper. Make sure the favas are heated through and the sauce is thick and flavorful. Take pan off heat at this time.

Note about the wine: I used a Sugar Bush wine from Salt River Winery out of Shepherd, MI. I prefer the flavors of the home-made white wine, and often find it drier than what I can pay for in the stores. Plus, I've found only about two white wines I can tolerate in stores, and I can't remember either of them. So, I use the wine Lauri brings me from her winery, in exchange for my empty bottles. I haven't found a better trade-off.

When the pasta is al dente-11 minutes, according to the box, drain it, then add it to the sauce to coat. Next, add the fresh grated parmigiano-reggiano and toss. Here, I bought the cheaper already grated $6.29 container of Parmigiano-Reggiano, and waited nearly a week to use it, but I did not open it. I may have enough for one more recipe. However, a $9-11 brick of parmigiano-reggiano does tend to get me through at least four recipes. I think I will go with the brick in the future.

And then to taste. It left something to be desired. I think it was the size and texture of the fava bean mostly, the sauce was nice, even with the white wine in it. After trying it, I didn't feel I could really place what it needed. When I went back for a little more later, I realized that the recipe needed cannellini beans instead of fava beans. With the smaller size and the creaminess, this recipe would have tasted much better. I do not expect to make this recipe again, however, if I feel the need for pasta and beans and do not make spezzatino, I will certainly use cannellini beans. I'm honestly not sure why Emeril doesn't, but I expect he has his reasons.

This felt like a recipe you make when you are young and trying to impress someone you don't like, maybe a spouse's boss. You slave all day, and it doesn't come out, but they have to be polite and tell you its good, especially as you explain what it took to shell each of these beans. And the whole time you explain that your hands touched every bean here, they hope you have washed your hands often and well.

I will not make this recipe again. Sorry, Emeril, you cannot win them all;-).

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Recipe 97: Asparagas and Baby Red Russian Kale Slaw

The challenge: Finding Baby Red Russian Kale...and pencil thin asparagas. The weakness: I gave up and settled for Red Kale, it happened to be organic, and the smallest asparagas being sold this week. However, settling or not, this is not your mama's salad, at least not my mother's-then again, she never liked leafy greens, nor asparagas. I believe this was true as I was in college when I tried either for the first time.

The recipe: No cooking, yeah! It also went together in less than an hour, including prep time. But this recipe serves four, not six or eight. I shaved the two ounces or so of Parmigiano-Romano cheese I thought I had...later, I realized I had pecorino-romano, must edit previous blog;-). However, compared the Parmagiano-Reggiano already grated to the Wisconsin Parmesan and found it still more flavorful, though only someone directly comparing or a true cheese snob would notice the difference. I may give my okay for using this substitute on second attempts at a recipe.

I began by ribbing and slicing the kale, then I sliced some of the asparagas, and realized the dressing needs to be made first. So, I set the salad/slaw aside and went to work on the dressing. I added the Parmiagiano-Reggiano chesse to two Tablespoons fresh squeezed lemon juice, then I zested the lemon and wondered if I should get one of those really cool zesters I see on cooking battles. The hand-grater works though. And I have a small zester-but that grabs more of the pith than I like. Next I added in small amounts of salt and fresh ground peppper. Then I whisked in the 1/4 cup of olive oil...now I'll be cooking with canola oil the rest of the week and hoping olive oil is on sale this week. I set the dressing aside as directed.

I went back to finishing chopping the asparagas into 1" slices, and added another 1/4 tsp of salt and black pepper(I eyeballed this), and began to mix. Then I remembered my really big stainless steel salad bowl and put it in there to mix. It mixed much easier and I added in the shaved Parmesan and tossed with the dressing. While I waited for it, I checked my garden and returned a phone call. I was only supposed to wait ten minutes, and I was hungry. I think I was on the phone for half an hour, but that's the way it goes. Now I'll need to find kid friendly Emeril recipes to make soon. I'm borrowing my nieces and nephew sometime in the next three weeks.

Then I tasted the salad/slaw, and found it very good. It seemed like it would go really well with white wine, but I don't drink white wine. So I settled for soda and considered that maybe I just wanted wine, or I was considering the recipe I was making next. I get to play with fava beans, then all my dishes will need to washed again.

I will definitely make this recipe again, I have kale growing in my garden, I must introduce my best friend to it, it might get dubbed lizard food, but I'm not sure he can have the cheese or the oil. ;-).

Saturday, June 11, 2011

Recipe 96: Wilted Chard with Walnut Pesto and a Balsamic Reduction

So, its been a busy week, and some of you might have begun thinking I've been slacking on my blog duties. In all honesty, I've been slacking on cooking duties this week. As a result, I decided I better get my tush back into the kitchen. An hour and a half and a few dishes later, I still have work to do, but the food is good. And that's why we're here, isn't it?

I should have begun by prepping my chard into pretty julienne slices. Instead, I began with step one and prepared my pesto. This called for 2 cups of parsley I only had to chop most of the stems off, say, that looks like two cups and drop into the food processor. I almost thought this could be an easy recipe. Its not hard, but its helpful if you have a sous chef, or prep things in advance. I chopped about a cup of walnuts, toasted them in the oven, and put 3/4 of them into the food processor. I was hungry, you can guess where the extra ended up. I then had to grate a fair amount of parmigiano-reggiano cheese. What luck, I still have a quarter of a brick, maybe a third and didn't need more than half. I did taste test an American style of parmesan cheese that is less costly. Its nice and nutty, but it doesn't have the bite I've grown accustomed to. In addition, I've decided that for the amount of recipes I use a brick of parmigiano-reggiano in, its worth the cost. Now I have to find a simple use for this other stuff...it's coming along, don't worry.

Edit: I learned the next day as I was making another recipe that I was comparing the American/Wisconsin Parmesan to Pecorrino-Romano cheese, which has more bite and less nut. I compared the freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, which the package assured me it was to the American and likely, only the most discerning or snobbish of palates will notice. However, I will buy another brick of Parmigiano-Reggiano to compare to the American soon and be sure. It's only fair to compare bricks to bricks as that's how you get truly fresh grated cheese. End edit.

I processed this with two cloves of crushed garlic a few times, then added in the olive oil in a thin stream. I wondered while adding it if I could get away with half the amount. It probably would have made for a thicker pesto. Next I added some lemon juice-fresh squeezed, of course. Then I zested the lemon to add to the mix and added a little salt and ground black pepper. I processed this, once again, then scraped down the sides and left the pesto alone for a bit.

Then I followed the next step and began to reduce the balsamic vinegar while I sliced some chard. I had two bunches instead of three, and forgot about that until I pulled out the chard. Too late to go back now, I'll have extra pesto is all. Yes, this nearly resulted in disaster. The vinegar did start to boil, but hadn't reduced enough in the first try, so I turned the heat down and let it reduce longer. While it cooked, I turned my back on the reduction and proceeded to rib and slice the chard. When I finished the first bunch of chard, I had boiled balsamic and not enough liquid. I poured it back in the pan and took it into the backyard and dumped it. I then came back in and tried again. Luckily you never use enough balsamic to not be able to do it again. I started over and paid closer attention as I finished ribbing and slicing the second bunch of chard. I kept the heat a little lower so it would take a little longer. This time, it reduced nicely, and when I got it to just over the 1/4 cup I needed, I turned off the burner and left the pan there and finally finished ribbing and slicing the chard.

I located my grapeseed oil next, and placed it into the saute pan. I'm so glad I have a large cast iron pan, even if it is enameled. It makes it easier to wilt huge bunches of chard. I added the 3T. pesto and the rest of the salt and fresh ground black pepper. I allowed the chard to cook through while rinsing off and cleaning up my work surfaces. It took a little longer than I expected to wilt. And the instructions left out what to do with the rest of the pesto. I ended up tossing it in along with the drizzle of the balsamic and enjoying a very good dish.

I will definitely make this recipe again. I'm wondering if these ingredients would make a good salad if they are not cooked, I think it might be easier to work with. I enjoyed this meal, and it was nice, but it wasn't quite perfect. I'm still trying to figure out what would turn it from good into bliss. I will admit the balsamic made me think of having a really nice chard salad with a favorite glass of wine.

I will definitely make this recipe again, especially if my chard seeds turn into chard. Happy eating. Oh, and the leftover pesto, is probably going on tomorrow's left over orichette pasta. I do love double duty.